A Walk Across Time

Having downloaded the city walking guide, since everything is within easy distance, I headed out to one of the city’s most popular attractions—the Tritons’ Fountain. My aim was to be swayed by the lyrical, cobbled streets, world-class buildings, and the diverse history that adorns this steep peninsula set within two natural harbours. At the fountain, three bronze, mythological Tritons (Greek gods of the sea) holding up a large basin signify Malta’s links with the sea. A popular Instagram- worthy spot, as one can imagine!

From here, a direct path leads the way to the imposing City Gate. This massive structure can be admired by walking over the bridge that spans the outer and inner walls of Valletta. Known as Bieb il-Belt or ‘Door of the City’, the current version of the gate was conceived by Italian architect Renzo Piano and completed in 2015. Built to replace the former, demolished fortified city gate, its tapered shape, tall steel ‘blades’ (used to highlight the junction of old and new) and overall restrained architecture harmonises brilliantly with the legacies of the past.

The Heart of the City

I walked on, and before I knew, I found myself strolling along Republic Street, the main thoroughfare of the capital. Stretching from the City Gate to Fort St Elmo, an erstwhile military bastion along the coastline, this bustling street takes pride of place in the city centre. Malta’s illustrious history is the protagonist here with the main and side streets dotted with countless eateries, the famous Piazza Regina, as well as architectural marvels, including the Royal Opera House, National Museum of Archaeology, the Grand Master’s Palace, and many more.

The brightly painted red, blue, and green balconies, dark terracotta roof tiles, and potted plants decorating the walls and grand arched front doors of the 16th and 17th-century Baroque-style buildings transport one to a bygone era of grace and elegance. I’m glad I had a camera to take full advantage of the magical frames on view at every turn.

How many beautiful streets does Valletta have? I wondered. Each one left me dazzled with its old-fashioned character and vibrant liveliness—all paths leading to narrow passageways and archways were honeycombed with an assortment of small shops and cafés, making for charming sights.

In need of some refreshment by now, I stopped to pick some coffee and pastizzi (traditional savoury pastries) at one of the cafés nearby. While savouring my snack, I heard about the firing-of-the-gun ceremony at Saluting Battery from fellow travellers. It seems the event, which takes place at noon and 4 PM, ranks amongst the most recommended visitor experiences in Valletta. I had missed the first slot but looked forward to the next one.

Treasures of the World

The next place on my list of must-see attractions was the magnificent St Johns Co-Cathedral, also created in the Baroque style of architecture. And while its austere façade may be misleading, its interiors stand in sharp contrast, taking one’s breath away with their extravagantly ornate detailing in dazzling hues of gold, elaborately carved frescoes covering the seemingly sky-high vaulted ceilings, and a remarkable array of artwork. One of the most notable masterpiece paintings here, The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, is widely considered to be Italian painter Caravaggio’s finest work. Absolutely stunning!

It wasn’t easy, but I managed to tear myself away from these spellbinding wonders and make my way just down the street to yet another of Valletta’s much-loved treasures, the Teatru Manoel, arguably one of the oldest and most beautiful theatres in the world. It was surreal to walk through its gorgeous galleries and admire its gilded setting, high pillars, and luxurious chandeliers.

It was nearing 4 PM now, and I headed towards the Upper Barrakka Gardens, a picturesque destination offering panoramic views of the Grand Harbour—an endless stretch of Mediterranean waters dotted with cruise ships, and the historic, fortified Three Cities of Malta (Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua) nearby. The lower tier of these expansive gardens is home to the Saluting Battery, where the ceremonial gun salute was scheduled to take place. What unfolded next was a truly impressive service involving soldiers in British artillery uniforms loading and firing eight cannons in a perfectly synchronised order.

Still awed by the vistas of grandeur and beauty I had just witnessed, I strolled towards my
last stop for the day. And I couldn’t have chosen a more impactful finale! Encompassing a history of 450 years, the monumental Grand Master’s Palace proudly dominates St George’s Square in the very heart of Valletta. Much like the St Johns Co-Cathedral, its severe, stony façade belies the richness within, home as it is to luxuriously appointed state rooms, sumptuous furnishings, and a vast selection of artworks. The Palace Armoury, with one of the world’s largest collections of arms and ammunition, many dating back to European, Islamic, and Ottoman Empires, is truly fascinating. And that seems to be the most unique aspect of this city. It holds the most amazing selection of treasures within its compact confines. Talk about ‘all good things coming in small packages’!